Exploring Rabat and Fez--Days 3-4

We started the day with a welcome briefing by Mohammed, where we were learned some Arabic words and were informed of some of the Moroccan customs.  One thing we were often reminded of was to pass or reach for something with our right hands, not our left.  More on that later.

And for goodness sakes, if you like something don't put your index finger and thumb together to make a circle, which for us would indicate..A-OK.  In Morocco it means ZERO...you did not like!

We set out on a guided tour of the city with a local guide also named Mohammed...as was our bus driver.  We called them Mohammed 1 Mohammed 2, and Mohammed 3.  Our Trip Leader, Mohammed 1, explained that it is customary for the first-born son of a father named Mohammed, to be named Mohammed....follow?

Our first stop was at the Royal Palace. It is a ceremonial palace not really a residence, although visiting diplomats stay here.  The current king is Mohammed VI.  He has 16 other palaces and is ranked as the 7th richest person in the world.

This is the impressive and best preserved Bab ar-Rouah or Gate of the Winds...one of the entrance gates to the palace.

A close up of the beautiful mosaics.  Throughout this trip we will marvel at the intricate mosaic designs of the gates of Morocco.

Outside the entrance are guards...one from each of the military branches of service.

Next stop was the Chellah necropolis on the outskirts of Rabat.  This gate was built in 1339 AD.

As we arrived, we were entertained with a little music and dance.

The Phoenicians were the first to settle here in the 3rd century BC and it was known as Chellah; then the Romans built a walled city on the site in 40 AD.  It was abandoned by the Romans in 250 AD.

We follow a path through gardens down the hill.

We pass by this strange looking trunk of a tree...it looks like a horse's head!

We come to the ruins.   This is all that remains of the Roman city known as Sala Colonia.

Below this are the remains of the Islamic complex that once existed here.  There is a stone-and-tile minaret, now topped by a stork’s nest--all that remains of a once-impressive mosque. It was abandoned in the 12th century.

The minaret topped with a stork's nest.

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 In the 14th century, a sultan built on top of the Roman site and surrounded it with the defensive wall that stands today.

We were all interested in watching the storks.  They migrate here from the Netherlands for the winter months.

We walk past tombs of a sultan and his wife...

 and those of several saints.

 And we came to a pool.

It is Bassin aux Anguilles, a pool that attracts women who believe that feeding boiled eggs to its resident eels brings fertility and easy childbirth.

One did come out to check us out.

We traveled back to Rabat and stopped at the Mohammed V mausoleum.

The building is considered a masterpiece of modern Moroccan architecture, with its white exterior, topped by a typical green tiled roof--green being the color of Islam.

 The interior is very elaborate with beautiful mosaics from floor to ceiling.

 It contains the tombs of the Moroccan king and his two sons, late King Hassan II and Prince Abdallah.

 

We were lucky to be able to enter as we were hurried through due it was closing in a few minutes as a visiting dignitary was about to arrive.

Right next to the mausoleum is the Hassan Tower.  Toward the end of the 12th century, the Sultan Yacoub al Mansour ordered the construction of the Hassan Tower and its adjoining mosque.  The sultan wanted this to be the world’s tallest minaret and largest mosque.

The columns were taken from Volubillis, a  Roman site we visit later on this trip.  The columns were intended to sustain a mosque that would be large enough to accommodate 20,000 worshipers.

The sultan died 4 years after the project was started.  Without his leadership, construction was stopped and never finished.  The minaret is only half the intended height.

There are royal guards, mounted on horses and dressed in elaborate uniform, standing at the main entrance. 

 As we were leaving, we watched the changing of the guards.  This happens every 90 minutes.

It was then time to head over to the Udaya Kasbah--a fort and the old part of the city that is enclosed within fortified walls.

Mostly residential, the kasbah's narrow streets are lined with whitewashed houses trimmed in blue – most of which were built by Muslim refugees from Spain.

It was thought that the color blue wards off evil.

It was a pretty walk through the narrow streets.

A beautiful entryway to a home.  The Moroccan doors are usually ornate and elaborate.

When we stepped out on top of the fort, we had a magnificent view of the Atlantic Ocean.

That evening Mohammed brought us to the Dinarjat Restaurant in the old walled city of Rabat.  We enter after Mohammed does a secret knock on the door.

The restaurant is in a a riad, or family-style home, and serves authentic Moroccan food.

We dine with fellow travelers, Amy and Barbara.  The meal was delicious.

We are entertained with music and dance.

and watched our waiter pour tea and not spill a drop.

The next morning we leave Rabat and set off for Fez, about a 4-hour drive inland from the coast.

We stop at the Maamoura forest where we learn about the cork-oak trees in Morocco.

Morocco is one of the world's leading producers of cork.  The cork is harvested when the tree is between 7 and 11 years old and only part way up the trunk.  It then regenerates.

Traveling on, we stop in Lekhmissat to visit the town's local market.  Outside the market, Mohammed stops us to visit with this dad and his sons. Mohammed is teaching us to interact with the locals.

The dad wasn't too keen on having photos taken but the boys sure loved it.  In fact, their friends joined in on a photo with our Trip Leader, Mohammed.  They were on their way to school.

We step inside the tented market...

...and stop at this man's table.  His name is Abdellah and we visit with him about his job and family.

And we stop again to visit with Hassan, who was selling a variety of vegetables and fruit.  At first he refused to tell us his name, but after visiting with us for a while he shared his name and did not mind having  his photo taken.  We always had to ask before taking anyone's photo.  A lot of Moroccans do not like to have their photo taken.  It is okay to take a photo of crowds, though.

Mohammed brought back to the bus some bananas and tangerines for us to enjoy as we traveled on.

We arrive in Fez and there are porters waiting to transport our luggage to our riad where we will spend three nights.  

 We walk a short distance through the narrow streets of the medina (old city) to the riad.  There was no way our bus could drive here; thus the porters using carts to transport our luggage.

Our "hotel" is called Riad Salam Fez, which is a Moroccan home that has been refurbished into a hotel.  This one was actually 4 homes that are connected with courtyards and fountains.

 It was jaw-dropping to say the least!  There are mosaics everywhere!

 Our room.

In the afternoon we are back on the bus and ride to the south watch tower of the city.  Our local guide tells us the history of the different parts of the Fez city and we enjoy the panoramic view.

We then go a a ceramic school where we interacted with the local artisans.

We learn the process of making the beautiful ceramics.  This potter is making a vase. 

 This one is doing the intricate painting.

 These men are chipping the glazed tiles into various shapes to be used in mosaics.

They sit on the cross-legged on the floor for about 6-hours a day and chip away.  

They are paid by the piece for their work.

 It's amazing how they can chip away the tile and it precisely interlocks with another piece.

Then the pieces are set upside down into a design. 

We were careful to not get too close and accidentally kick the design.  

When all the pieces are set, some kind of adhesive glue is poured onto the back.

And when all finished you have this!

It was then time for a trip through their store.

 Everything was beautiful.......and very expensive.  But we understand why after seeing the time-consuming process of making the pieces.

For dinner we all opted to try CAMEL BURGERS!

 Camel burgers were very good...it was nicely spiced, which is what you basically tasted.

The next day we learn a new Arabic word...balak, balak!  Which means watch out!

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