Day 23
Saturday, September 07
Saw our FIRST ICEBERG today.
Out on deck again about 11 pm to see if the Northern Lights are dancing
around. We tend to watch for the
astronomer who is on board as a lecturer.
Last night he came out on deck, looked up at the skies, and said
“Doesn’t look promising tonight….so I’m going to bed!” We quickly followed him back inside as there
was no point in standing out in the cold.
Day 24
Sunday, September 08
Nanortalik, Greenland
We arrive in Greenland,
which is the world’s largest island. The
center of the island is permanently covered with a blanket of ice that is two
miles thick in some places. We think Iceland and Greenland should have their
names reversed.
We tender into Nanortalik |
Nanortalik is Greenland’s most southerly town
and lies in a scenic area consisting of some of Greenland’s most picturesque
fjords, small woodlands, and steep mountainsides. This we could not see as
there is fog and a slight mist in the air today. When we dropped anchor in the harbor this morning,
we were able to see some icebergs floating along and the town was visible from
the ship. The town’s name means the
“place of polar bears”, which refers to the polar bears that occasionally pass
by the town in the summer in conjunction with the field ice from the Arctic
Ocean.
The people of Greenland
are of Inuit (or Eskimo) descent. The
primary language is Greenlandic (East Inuit), but Danish and English are also
taught in the schools.
Based on the buildings
and homes we saw, Nanortalik is not very well off; a lot of the homes looked to
be only one room, or maybe 2-3 rooms in one of many multi-family “row houses”,
though still colorful if somewhat dilapidated.
Nanortalik has only
1,400 inhabitants and is visited by relatively few tourists each year. With only a limited number of local guides
available, there were no organized ship tours.
Instead the townspeople offered performances of folk singing and
dancing. The sports center where they were held could
accommodate a large number of people throughout the day.
I think we are going in the right direction. |
We found our way to the
sports center and welcomed getting out of the heavy mist that was now coming
down. Coffee and cake were offered to us
as we sat at tables to wait the start of the performances.
The Kaffe-mik (coffee
party) is an old tradition where a family invites many guests into their home
in celebration of weddings, birthdays, etc.
Coffee or tea and Greenlandic cake is served. The cake was more like a sweet bread.
The Greenland flag |
We were in the sports center for the first round of performances. It included the church choir, singing in their native language and then folk dances performed by the children in town.
One lady slipped in late, but she did have on the native clothes |
When the repeat round of
performances were about to start, we left the building and simply walked around
the town a bit. Our destination was to
the church for a photo and then the Visitor Center to buy a post card to mail
our grandson from Greenland.
With that being accomplished, we joined the line to tender back to the ship so we could get warmed up and dry. The temperature today was a chilly 41 degrees and we had had enough.
We’re happy we made it
Greenland; it is a port that is often skipped due to inclement weather
conditions. Had we better weather, our
afternoon activity would have been a hike up the mountain behind the town for
views of the Nanortalik and Tasermiut Fjord.
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