Tuesday, July 25, 2017

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

We traveled from our camp by bus to Victoria Falls.  We first stopped by St. Mary's school for a visit with the headmistress and a fifth grade class.

Their Mission Statement
Students came out to greet us with songs.

 The Headmistress.
The 5th grade class we visited....

I visited with these 2 young boys..
...and Terry visited with 2 boys and a girl.
The school is supported in part by the Grand Circle Foundation, which is the parent company of Overseas Adventure Travel.


After our visit, we headed to the city of Victoria Falls, where we will be staying in a hotel for 2 nights.

Champion is always giving us "Learning and Discovery" moments.  Today we stopped by a carving center.  Saw the carvings from beginning stage to the end product and then had an opportunity to purchase items at prices better than the stores.



This gentleman carved this huge crocodile...
We made a small purchase from this man.
Next we stopped at this cultural center for a traditional African lunch.
 ...with entertainment




After checking into hotel Champion took us on a walk through the rain forest where we could see the falls.  The falls is actually on the Zambia side; the view of it and the rainforest is on the Zimbabwe side.

We saw the statue of David Livingstone, the Scottish missionary and explorer, who is believed to have been the first European to view Victoria Falls on November 16, 1855.  He named his discovery in honor of Queen Victoria of Great Britain.


And we had our group photo taken by the statue.
And then we saw it...
Victoria Falls is the largest curtain of water in the world based on its combined width and height....and one of the world's Seven Natural Wonders.  It is nearly twice as high as Niagara and about a mile wide.  At peak flood times, 1.4 billion gallons of water per minute pass over its edge.
 The African name of the falls is Mosi-oa Tunya, which means "the smoke that thunders".

We enjoyed walking the rainforest trail and stopping at lookout points...



...and we got wetter and wetter from the mist



Dan, Linda and us at Danger Point.  We had to be very careful out at this point as the rocks were really slippery and the mist was coming down on us like rain.

Seeing the falls from here was great, but you can't see the whole falls at any point.  So....tomorrow we will see the falls from high above, which is the best way to see the magnitude of the falls.

The next morning we did a microlight flight.
Our safety briefing...on a sign.
 Here I am boarding the microlight.
 And off I go....

A go-pro camera was attached to the wing, which took photos along the way...


And here is a photo of the falls without the microlight in it, the way we saw it...
It was amazing to see the falls from high above and feel like a bird flying through the air.
Terry did the same flight and we have a video of that ride.  We had a blast!

In the afternoon, we walked to the local market.  On the way we found some of our fellow travelers.

At the market we were bombarded by vendors the whole time.  They all have pretty much the same carvings, bowls, etc.  Terry bartered his walking shoes for a Big 5 Africa carving.  A nice souvenir for shoes he no longer wanted.   This is one place where bartering is appropriate, often expected.  American goods like T-shirts, sweatshirts, shoes, and baseball caps with designer logos can be good "currency" here.

That evening, we enjoyed our Farewell Dinner while cruising along the Zambezi River above the falls with our new friends from the trip....

...and our good friends, Dan and Linda.  It was so much fun to travel with them.

Back at the hotel after dinner, Champion arranged for a young lady named Noreen to visit with just the ladies in our group.  She talked about being a female growing up in Africa, and also about the practice of polygamy.  From many a woman's point of view, it is not the ideal marriage arrangement that Mufuka told us.  There can be a lot of resentment between the women and not a happy life.

The next morning we had to pack and check out of the hotel.  But first we had a very interesting "Learning and Discovery" lesson on the life of David Livingstone, by an author of a book on Dr. Livingstone.

Then we headed to the airport for a flight to Johannesburg.  After arriving there, it was time to say goodbye to all our fellow travelers and board the international flight to return home via Atlanta.

The blog on this Ultimate Africa adventure ended up much longer than I had anticipated.  It is hard to put into words exactly how exciting and wonderful this trip was.  Every day and every camp was a wonderful and varied experience.

It was also hard to select photos from the 3000 that we had taken on this trip....believe me what you have seen are just a few of the many I had to choose from.

If you stayed with me through all the postings, thank you.  I do this blog for Terry and I so that we can look back and remember the wonderful experiences we had on our many travels, and I know we have friends who travel along with us vicariously through the blog.

Our next big adventure will be coming up in early 2018 when we travel with OAT again to Patagonia in South America.....so stay tuned!



Kashawe Camp, Hwange, Zimbabwe

During the night we heard hippos, hyaenas, and a possible leopard near the camp.  The birds provided a symphony as we were waking up.  We watched a kingfisher on the deck during breakfast.


We said our goodbyes at 8 am and headed the short distance to the air strip where our pilots were waiting for us.

One hour 20 minutes of flying and we arrived at Livingstone International Airport.  We boarded our waiting bus and headed to the Zambia/Zimbabwe border.  We stopped by for our first glimpse of the Zambezi River, the one that flows over Victoria Falls.

After going through the passport control, we drove to the historic bridge at the border and walked across.  It's one lane traffic.

We then saw our first view of Victoria falls...just a small corner of it.  We will have to wait a few days before we see the whole falls.

We went through Zimbabwe immigration and boarded a new bus and headed to Hwange.
The vendors at the border were selling Zimbabwe money....
Dan and Linda bought some and gave us 2 bills that total 6 billion dollars!  Wow!!  Thank you!!

Hyperinflation in Zimbabwe caused the collapse of the Zimbabwe currency, which is now worthless, except to the vendors which sell them to tourists for a few dollars.  The US dollar is the currency used in Zimbabwe today....so I guess we are not billionaires after all.

Once in the town, Champion walked us through an open market and pointed out all sorts of things.

 Champion stopped and bought a bag full of these worm-like things....oh, oh!  I'm thinking we will see these again...
Cute kid...
 Bags of polenta...an African staple.

 And here's some of those dried sardines we had last night as an appetizer!

Champion showed us sandals for sale recycled from tires.  They should never wear out!
We then stopped at OK...the grocery store chain.  We will soon be visiting a village and will bring some food staples as a gift to the villagers.  We all chipped in a few dollars and along with OATs contribution, Champion was able to fill a grocery cart.

We boarded our safari vehicles at the entrance to Hwange National Park.  As we were driving along, a herd of elephants cross the road.
 This one did not like that we were on the road and did a false charge before retreating.

We sat and watched the parade of elephants for a few minutes and then an oncoming vehicle alerted us to a leopard sighting just ahead.  We carefully scanned the hillside and our guide spotted it.

We see another leopard!   Leopard #4  Dan was able to capture these photos with his camera and zoom lens as it was a ways up the hill from us.
We were very lucky to have seen 4 different leopards on this trip.  Some people never see one!


We arrived at the camp with the welcoming of the staff and settled into our tent.
The main hall for dining
Our tented cabin
Inside the tent
 Bathroom with shower, sink and toilet

The next morning we take a break from game viewing to learn more about Zimbabwe's human residents in a village near the park.


Upon arrival at one family's compound, we were greeted by Shamal, who spoke good English.  He is 24 years old and going to school to become a guide, he hopes for O.A.T.

The ladies helped each of us don our fabric chincinge skirts.

Shamal took us around the family compound and showed us the family's water spigot....water comes from the Zambezi  River, maybe 60 km away.  There were other water spigots alongside the road in the village where we saw women filling 5 gallon buckets and carrying them on their heads.


Shamal showed us the compound's shower....go fetch some water and heat it if you wish and then enter the shower stall and splash it on yourself and that's your shower.
 Inside the shower...

We saw the silo crib where the corn and watermelons and squash are stored.

Next was the backup ambulance...a wagon that an ox would pull if someone needed to go to the hospital and the village's vehicle was broken down.

In the tree was a supply of rope, made from the trees.


We entered one hut..the sleeping quarters for a mother and daughter.
It contains a bed, a nightstand and a wardrobe.  Each hut has a mosquito net treated with insecticide to guard against malaria.

Next was the kitchen where the women cook.
They have no ovens...everything is cooked in pots


We had bush tea and a cookie inside the kitchen brought by Champion from our camp.


We introduced each one of us and the ladies and children introduced themselves.  We learned how the people live, tend to their animals and raise their crops.  We were able to ask questions to gain an insight into their culture first-hand.  And the ladies had questions for us.


Outside we watched a demonstration of how to grind the grain and we each had the opportunity to try it.



Lastly we gave the compound some groceries that both OAT and our group donated money to buy.  


And we also purchased a goat, which is their bank account.  They barter goods and services with goats.  They will only eat a goat for a celebration of some sort.

Then it was back to the camp for lunch and rest until the afternoon's "Learning and Discovery" talk about polygamy.

Mofuka, one of our guides, practices polygamy.  He has 3 wives, 10 children, 20 plus grandchildren and 10 great grandchildren.  He explained how all his wives came about.   His grandfather practiced polygamy, but his father did not.  It was not something he thought about until Wife #1 brought up the idea of getting Wife #2;  she wanted help around the house. He ended up with 2 more wives; but Wife #4 didn't fit in so they divorced....by the wife giving him 10 cents!

This all raised many, many questions from our group.  Our heads were spinning...Mofuka answered them all very openly and said that the practice of polygamy is very common in the villages.  Champion didn't always agree with what he said.

Then we went on a late afternoon game drive.   Our guide, Abiot, and Champion saw lion tracks and we followed them toward the river.  Abiot drew a circle around the lion paw print.

The trees were not very tall around here. We learned that the elephants beat the trees down as they feed and the trees keep leafing out.  With the leaves being closer to the ground, the smaller animals like the kudos and impalas have an easier way to feed.


We came upon a herd of about 10 elephants going down to the river to drink and then eat at the trees.  We watched them for quite awhile as the sun set.  Never saw the lion, but we did keep a watchful eye out for it.




The next morning we leave for our last game drive of our trip...it will be an all-day drive as we go to the far end of the park beyond the reservoir.

We see the African hoopoe bird.

Then Mofuka stops and picks up a weaver bird nest that was on the ground due to elephants pushing down a tree.  The nests have 2 holes for entrance/quick exit.

And this is a weaver bird we saw back at the camp.
This is what the nests look like hanging in the trees.


Tawny eagle.

 Then we come to a hippo laying in the mud.


We watch him for awhile--he blinks his eyes and twitches his ears so we know he is alive.

and as we are watching a three-banded plover bird, which nests in the gravel alongside the road,

...we see the hippo walking out of the mud hole.


Our vehicle won't start and Mufuka has to tighten up the battery cables.  We were right by the plover nest and the bird left it when Mufuka stepped out of the vehicle.   The bird tried to fake a broken wing so we would follow it away from the nest.  With it gone, we could see the eggs.

We carried on seeing Cape buffalo, warthogs, and giraffes....

And then we saw elephants....lots of them by a waterhole.  We watched them for quite awhile as they grouped up and drank water, splashed water and mud on themselves and ate the foliage around the waterhole.


There were hippos keeping their eyes on us from the water.

Elephant stretching? on a stump or maybe just showing off!


 There was a baby nursing and other young elephants rolling in the mud.


There had to have been 60-70 elephants in this area.  They were fascinating to watch.

After we left the elephants, we stopped to investigate a hole an aardvark dug in a termite mound.  It was not occupied so we never saw an aardvark.

Mufuka showed us the leaves of the evergreen tree...the giraffes can wrap their tongues around the branch and pull off the leaves and not the thorns.

On the next bush he showed us how the thorns lay down and the leaves can be pulled off.  That bush also can send out toxins to the leaves when the animals have consumed too much of the plant.

We then stopped for tea and coffee at the reservoir.  There was a huge elephant skull on display at this rest stop.


We saw several hyrax, which resemble rabbits or rodents.  Our guide thinks it was a hyrax that the last leopard (#4) may have been hunting.


We drove on to where we had lunch at a big waterhole.  Water is pumped here from the reservoir miles away to provide much needed water for a variety of animals.

While we ate, we watched hippos, warthogs, elephants, crocs, kudos, impala, and baboons.  This is how I always visualized Africa.


Then it was a 1.5 hour ride back to camp.  We just sat back and enjoyed our last safari ride seeing kudos, elephants, giraffes, Cape buffalo, etc.

Just before dinner our "Learning and Discovery" talk was given by Sally, one of the business managers of the camp, who shared with us her life as a single mom and getting her education.

And out came the worm-like things that Champion bought at the market the other day...
Champion said they were soaked in water and then fried.  Yes, they did look bigger. Yum, give them a try he said...

 And so we did...not too much of a taste, maybe salty, and very chewy.
After our tasting, Champion and our guides took handfuls of it to....enjoy?  They love it.

After dinner we enjoyed the Farewell program by staff




and we did our skit again...a day in the life of an Ultimate Africa tourist.
Here we are riding in the safari vehicle, bouncing along, dodging branches, and taking photos of animals.

The next morning we said our goodbyes and headed to Victoria Falls.  But first, we stop by an elementary school...

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